Mittwoch, 5. Oktober 2016

Camden Cape, Seamwork,

My dear sewing friends,

Last fall, at the factory outlet of Tandem (Bühl), I had bought enough woolen double fabric to make two capes, one for my daughter and one for myself.

My Cypress Cape was finished at the end of winter and worn until the first warm days, it's so cozy.
When my daughter was at home, she chose the Camden Cape pattern by Seamwork.

I immediately cut the pieces and began to sew. The fabric being double, a cozy feltlike wool blend at the outside and a knit at the inside, I chose omitting the lining and making the same finish as for my own cape. I changed the center inserting a twoway zip with an underlaid band.
Having sewn the last vertical seam, I realised that I had closed the armslits, too!
I had to wait for daylight to unpick the seams and those of the flat-felled-like finish (where I had graded the seam allowances already).
This was made later on but then- warm days were coming, I was unsure how to finish the slits and I had to draw a back facing...
So it stayed as an unfinished object until the end of september when I would visit my daughter.
I finished the armslits with two interfaced fabric strips each which I first closed to the size of the slit, sewed them right sides facing the cape, graded the seams, turned them and topstitched them in place. Same procedure with the neckfacing, which I drew overlapping the cape pieces at the seamlines. I graded the fabric to the topstiches.
My daughter loves her cape and wore it all the evenings.
Pattern: Camden Cape, Seamwork
Fabric: double fabric feltlike/knit
Alterations: twoway zip with underlaid band
                     omitted the lining; added neckfacing and slitfacing

Do you want to have a look at the other hundred of German sewists who are meeting Susanne at MeMadeMittwoch?

Next weekend about 40 sewists will meet at Würzburg for the southern german sewing bee AnNäherung_Süd 2016. I am quite excited to meet them!

Mittwoch, 14. September 2016

Midsummer Night's Dream dress, Papercut Patterns

My dear sewists,

What a lovely summer heat in september! Who had thought that I could wear my lightweight Midsummer Night's Dream dress in these days!
As soon as the pattern was released, I loved it.
To say the truth, I very much love the name. Midsummer Night's Dream was the first ballet my daughters would dance with their Ballett-Ensemble, so I have got some sweet memories.

However, I realised that the pattern has got some issues, described by some of the few bloggers who had already sewn it.
The pattern rested in my drawer waiting for the right fabric. Eventually, at a fabric outlet,  I purchased a very lightweight cotton/silk blend, a perfect material for this pattern.

I had intended to use the border print along the neckline, but made an error aligning the waistline. I then cut the back bodice accordingly. I cut the skirt as long as my fabric allowed me to.

I used self bias binding. I sewed the skirt's back center with a french seam, the other ones I made as false flat felled seams (foot #70) to make them more stable.
This was nearly to become a bad dud! The front armhole was way too long. The straps were moved extremely to the center. So I remembered Chantal's solution to gather the front armhole. Sewing three pleats, I pinched three full inches out of each front armhole. 

This way, I've got a lovely airy summerdress. The skirt's overlap is very well designed, no gaping fear! 
Pattern: Midsummer Night's Dream Dress, Papercut Patterns
Size: XS bust, S waist and skirt
Fabric: Cotton/silk blend, paisleylike borderprint, KBC Lörrach
Alterations: 3 pleats of one inch each at front armhole, midi /maxi length.
Others' Midsummer Night's Dream dresses:
Chantal's two dresses
Mel's, Juliet's and Kat's
Fiona's and

Let's see who else is wearing an airy summer dress at this time of the year at MeMadeMittwoch!
Enjoy some nice late summer days!

Samstag, 10. September 2016

Maxi linen Moana dress, Papercut Patterns

So I sewed another Moana dress.

I had discovered another floral linen print similar to that of my beloved watercolour Malvarosa dress.
Gillian of Crafting a Rainbow had dared me for her Sewing Dares to sew a mini or a maxi dress.

My floral Inari dress was supposed to be the mini dress. For this maxi dress, I shortened the long bodice by 4 cm and elongated the skirt to a maxi length.
This linen has got a bold print. The floral part was printed in the middle of the repeat, I had got two repeats at the fabric outlet, where I had bought the Como print, too.
It  not so easy to place all the pieces. First, I placed the skirt pattern pieces how I thought it would look best.
To get the bodice cut, I had to make a front center seam. The back bodice I had to cut cross grain. I even had some fabric left for the ruffles. But when sewing the side seams, I realised that I had folded the back pattern pieces wrongly, they were way too short! So I had the choice to shorten the front or to patch the back which was my choice. Sadly, there were no white pieces left. The patch matches the skirt colour.
I sewed flat felled seams.

I opted to add the ruffle. May be I shouldn't have. I am considering taking it out. What do you think?
Pattern: Moana Dress, Papercut Patterns
Size: XS
Fabric: two repeats of floral linnen print, KBC Lörrach
Alterations: shortened the bodice by 4cm, elongated the skirt to maxi length.

Have a lovely sewing time in these sunny days!