Mittwoch, 29. März 2017

Farrow Dress, Grainline, #jecoudsmagardeerobecapsule2017 Mars

Coucou mes chères amies couseuses,

Hello, dear sewing friends,

it is time to show our capsule items sewn in march. Obviously, I have sewn my dress.
I have chosen the Farrow Dress pattern by Grainline Studio. I loved the pattern as soon as I saw it but was quite unsure whether it would suit me.
The pattern has fitted shoulders and an extended A-line with a high-low hem. There are centre seams as well as inverted V-lines at lower waist line. The most striking detail are two front pockets cleverly integrated in the diagonal waistline.
After reading Jenny's post about dying your fabrics I had a try with a cream coloured viscose jaquard waiting in my stash.
At Simplicol site, you can get an idea how mixing two colours would work out. I ordered "lavender" and "elegant grey" and mixed them (weighed the liquid to be exact when mixing). The result was a way more brillant colour than intended. I had envisioned a more muted, more greyish lavender.
I didn't have enough fabric to respect directions and had to cut the back skirt pieces upside down. It isn't really visible, but the flower heads don't go down in one row, which is visible. I can live with that. I had considered cutting the pockets separately of other fabric, but shortened them instead.
I sewed a straight size 6 without any other changes. I shortened the hem by 6cm. I didn't like the finishing of the back slit so widened the facing including the slit. A next time maybe I would design a completely new facing going up to the armholes to fix them.
When moving too much, the back hook would open. I will replace that hook and eye by a little button and a thread loop.

pattern: Farrow Dress, Grainline Studio
Size: 6
fabric: viskose jaquard, Tandem Outlet, Bühl
dye: Simplicol intensiv, lavender and elegant grey
alterations: back facing extended, shortened by 6cm.

I am still not sure about the silhouette. What do you think?

At Clo's, there will be links to all the other sewists taking part at #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017 the last day of march.

German sewist would meet each wednesday at MeMadeMittwoch.

Go have a look! Have fun!

Dienstag, 28. Februar 2017

Kanerva Peplum Blouse, Named, #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017 Fevrier

Bonjours, mes copines!

Hello, my sewing friends!

It's already last day of february, last day of our second month of #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017 when Clo would collect our finished projects.
I had intended sewing a Talvikki Sweater of Named Clothing's Evolution Theory Collection FW16.
I made a wearable muslin of a soft woolen knit I had bought at a local outlet.
It is very loose and a little too long because I am only 1,65m tall. I intended to shorten the front a little more than the back.
Pattern: Talvikki Sweater, Named Clothing, Evolution Theory Collection FW16
Size: 38
Fabric: soft woolen jaquard knit by Tandem Outlet
Alterations: Shortened the side slit by 5cm

For my capsule version, I bought some lovely, very cozy Twinkle Rose Cotton knit by Atelier Brunette. Sadly, I made a mistake and my fabric was way too short. So I remembered the Kanerva Peplum Blouse pattern which had already been printed at an online copy shop together with other patterns and was sleeping in my pattern drawer.
I had seen some lovely versions made by Kirsty of top notch and by Sue of fadanista, who had remarked that this pattern is actually made for stable jerseys.
I chose size 38 after my measurements, grading the peplum 3cm out regarding my hips. When fitting, I took the side seams in so I made a straight 38. However, I shortened the bodice by about 2cm and another cm by making a wider waist pleat.
I made elastic button holes, using some water soluble embroidery stabilizer on top. I didn't open them but sewed the two layers together with the buttons. The top can be pulled on and off without any opening.

I am rather pleased wit my cozy top and I am hoping that it will go well with my intended to be made grey trousers and skirt.
Pattern: Kanerva Peplum Blouse, Named Clothing, All Things Nice Collection SS14
Size: 38
Fabric: Twinkle Rose, Atelier Brunette
Alterations: shortened bodice by 2 cm, increased the waist pleat by 0,5cm (shortening 1cm) and
deepened the back armhole by 1cm.

Have a look at Clo's lovely dress and all the other makes (links at the comments).

Wednesday is always MeMadeMittwoch-day to the German sewing community, have a look there, too!


Dienstag, 31. Januar 2017

Driftless Cardigan, Grainline. #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017 Janvier

Coucou, chère copines,
Hello, dear sewing friends,

it is time for our first meeting of #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017.
Look at the first garment of my capsule warderobe 2017, the Driftless Cardigan of Grainlinestudio.
Eventually, I used this lovely woolen rib knit I had bought one and a half years ago at Tandem's outlet. I had intended to make another Lola. Meanwhile, I had realized that I don't need another very warm woolen knit dress. I prefer warm layers I can take off when it get's too warm inside.
Some weeks ago, I had given several pdf patterns to print at an unexpensive online copy shop. Every A0 sheet was about 1,50€ and the postage fee devided by a lot of sheets makes a good price.
I don't trace patterns but cut out my size. I graded size 6 at the bust up to a 10 at hip level. In hindsight I could have left size 6 overall.
Only after looking at the pics, I realized that there is a stain at the fabric. The real fabric's colour is rather dark so it isn't obvious. I have worn the cardigan like is a lot already. I hope the stain will disappear at a wash.
I stabilized the shoulder seams with a row of overlocked yarn and stabilized the pockets continuing the overlocked seams forming a rope. For the pocket openings, I carefully pressed a strip of interfacing over the entire pattern piece. Sadly, this is seen by the inside. A next time I would interface the openings only.

I made the variation with the split hem and the longer back. The neckbands, I cut out along the selvedge. I didn't fold the inner edge of the neckband but straightly seamed the selvedge on by hand.
I am really happy about my cardigan. It is modern, warm and cozy. Only disadvantage is the fact that it probably doesn't match the other planned garments too well.

pattern: Driftless Cardigan, Grainlinestudio
fabric: woolen rib knit, fabric outlet Tandem, Bühl
size: bust 6 graded to 10 at hips, sleeves 10
alterations: neckband finish, interfaced pocket openings and button bands.

At every last day of the month, Clo will collect all our finished garments of the month! I am excited seeing all the others' makes!

Every wednesday, German sewing bloggers are meeting at MeMadeMittwoch. Maybe you would like to have a look there, too?

Have fun,