First, I wanted to repeat the Victoria blazer. However, the birthday sale at Named Clothing incited me to try the Lourdes Cropped Jacket.
The pdf-pattern is not pleasant. The two sizes at one print are higgledy-piggledy placed so you cannot grade from one size to the other. You have to be happy that the pieces of one size are not laid one over the other so they can be cut out directly. The size is not written at the pattern pieces so you have to write it down not to forget it.
I sewed size 38. The only change I made after a rough paper muslin was shifting the bust darts inwards for 2cm and a forward shoulder adjustment of 1cm.
Because I didn't line the jacket, I omitted the interfacing at neckline, armholes and sleeve caps. I didn't finish the raw edges like indicated before sewing.
The fake pockets, I pinned in place at the outer dart wings and basted them in place. Then I sewed the darts without cutting them out because of the omitted lining.
All the seams, I finished with a false flat felled seam.
I first sewed the seam, SA being 1cm at Named Clothing, and graded the back SA to 4mm.
I then made the first seam with the flat felled foot (Bernina #70).
Now I pressed the seam and sewed the second seam.
The facing, I finished with a small hem (Bernina foot #69). I understitched all the seam allowances at the facings (not seen in the pics).
I followed the good instructions which give nice results at the hem and the inverted pleat.
To prevent the facing flapping out, I sewed in the shoulder seam ditch. I folded the hem seam allowance under by 1cm and edgestitched by the wrong side.
Afterwards, I noticed, that I had crossed the fake pocket flap. So I undid the hem seam at the flaps, secured the seam in front and stitched from the back under the flaps as long as possible.I sewed a little loop at the inverted pleat, fixing the facing there, too.
Pattern: Lourdes Cropped Jacket of the Ticket Collection, Named Clothing
Fabric: Italian linen, Garçonne, Freiburg
Alterations: shifted the bust darts to the center by 2cm,
forward shoulder adjustment by 1cm.
Today, about a hundred of German sewists are meeting at MeMadeMittwoch. Go have a look!