Sonntag, 27. August 2017

Asaka Kimono, Named Clothing, #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017 Août

Hello, my sewing friends!
Coucou, mes copines!
Our internet sewing community has brought me several sewing friends in real life. One of them is Mel of 500daysofsewing who is living in a neighbouring community. She pushed me to finally sew the kimono I had cut out since quite some time.
We met last Sunday at her great sewing studio to sew our Asaka kimonos. The pattern of Named Clothing features interesting two piece sleeves with a slit up to the forearm.
Last November, I had seen this gorgeous Liberty silk crêpe at The Fabric Store and had to buy it for my kimono project. It is by far the most expensive fabric purchase I ever made. Worth every penny! 
The print is exactly what I had looked for. The silk has got the most beautiful drape with just the perfect weight. I used a very fine needle (60) and polyester thread. The silk was easy to sew and to press.
I sewed size 38 according to my bust size.
Named Clothing's seam allowances are only 1cm. I cut 2cm seam allowances all along the front sleeve seam, sewed the seam and folded the seam allowance two times according to the slit hem, stitching one continuous edge seam.

I sewed the sleeves in by flat when I was irritated because I couldn't find any notch according to the sleeve front seam. All seams are french seams, using my quilt foot.
I didn't want to fuse any interfacing to my precious silk so I bought some silk organza which I basted with stitch length 5 within the seam allowances to the outer collar pair and the belt pieces. The silk Organza was very difficult to cut because of it's shifting nature.
Similar to the belt loops, I made a little hanger loop which I fixed when sewing on the collar. The belt loops, I sewed on after finishing the kimono to determine the position.
Pattern: Asaka Kimono, Named Clothing
Size: 38
Fabric: 3m Liberty of London Torrington Crepe de Chine - Maria Teresa / Berry 

I am so happy about my kimono. I guess that I will wear it every morning making breakfast!
This is my August lingerie make of #jecoudsmagarderobe capsule. Have a look at Clo's blog to see all the other's makes. Miriam who has sewn a wonderful swimsuit this month is collecting the Germans' contributions

Here you can admire gorgeous Asaka Kimonos made by:
Lizzy Jane, Amanda for a friend, Amanda for herself and Heather Loo.
Have fun,

Samstag, 29. Juli 2017

Kimono-leotard Jalie 2673, #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017 Juillet

Coucou, mes amies,

Hello, my sewing friends!

Have a look at my july make for our challenge #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017!

Last year, I had already sewn the Sophie swimsuit. 
Because I don't like very much visiting swimming pools (either it is too cold or there are too many visitors), I opted for brightening up my sports wear.

Once a week, I am having a PBT course where we are exercising with a fit ball. Most of the time, you are reclined at a mat. So I was looking for a pattern with a high neckline and chose Jalie 2673
The kimono style front wrap is allowing to enter into the leotard even with wide hips. Because I wanted to accentuate the band, I sewed it on left side at left side.
I hid the seam allowances by attaching by flat a navy blue fold over elastic with little zig zag stitches at each side. I skipped the sleeves and used the fold over elastic to finish the armholes.
My fear was not to be able to enter my buttocks into the leotard which is no problem. However it is a little bit difficult to enter the shoulders due to the firm blue elastic.
I lengthened the skirt by 5cm to hide my rear and finished the hem with a serged rolled hem. The instructions leave the hidden front edge unfinished but I made a flat serger seam.

For the briefs, I used my TNT panties pattern "The Smoothie" which is covering everything up.

I sewed the front pieces of the Watson bra for a built-in bra using a firm berrytone powernet and a 2cm plush underbust elastic. I fixed it at the side  and front-overlap seam allowances of the finished leotard. I fitted the straps and sewed them on the shoulder seam allowances. 

I am very happy with my new kimono leotard. I have already recieved some requests where I had bought it.

Pattern: Kimono dress leotard Jalie 2673
Size: T
Pattern built-in-bra: Watson bra, Clothhabit
Panties Pattern: The Smoothie
Fabric: Sensitive S007 rotblau diagonal,

You can have a look at the others' makes at Clo's. Miriam has collected the German participants. At Selmin's Tweed and Greet you can admire all the red makes for 12 Colours of Fashion.
Have fun!


P.S.: Some of you wanted to know what PBT is:

P.P.S.: I don't know why all the links were gone. They are working now!

Donnerstag, 22. Juni 2017

Grande Arche Bluse, Sewionista Patterns

Hello, dear sewists,

I am very pleased that Julia of Sewionista asked me to test sew her new top pattern
The Grande Arche is a sewing pattern for a top or dress with bust darts, showing a perfect neckline with facings. The garment doesn't have any closures. There are options for short sleeves, long sleeves or stylish bell sleeves. 
I opted for the modern twist of bell sleeves and used a lovely shirting with discreet stripes.
I am so pleased of the excellent fit. I am surprised that the back is looking so good without having any back darts. The sleeve caps fit beautifully in the armholes.
I hope that the little blouse will suit my new trousers to go with my capsule wardrobe #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017. Actually however, it is too hot to wear any longsleeved blouses.
Pattern: Grande Arche Blouse, Sewionista Patterns
Size: 36 bust graded to 40 hip
Fabric: offwhite shirting with discreet cream stripes, Tandem Bühl

I received the pattern by Julia but all the thoughts are my own.
Have a look at what other sewists have made for themselves shown at RUMS.


Mittwoch, 21. Juni 2017

Belladone Robe, Deer and Doe, MeMadeMittwoch

Hello, dear sewing friends,

how I love these hot summer days we are having the last days! Time to take all those beloved linen dresses out of the wardrobe.
Today we are meeting at MeMadeMittwoch to show our worn memade garments. 700Sachen is Hosting with a lovely Anna maternity hack.
I love my Belladone Dress made of Italian linen. For some details, I used embroidered some embroidered linen. I think that there is no Belladone Dress in the net I have seen that I wouldn't have liked. This is an excellent pattern.
pattern: Belladone Dress, Deer and Doe
Size: 38 bust- 40 waist and hip, skirt length of biggest size.
Fabric: Italian linen and embroidered linen for contrasting details.

In the afternoon, I will have some time to look at all the others' garments at MMM.
Have a lovely summer day!

Mittwoch, 31. Mai 2017

Corset-blouse pattern hack Grace, Named and Datura, Deer+Doe

Hello, my dears,

Look at my newest make, a little linen summer blouse.
The Grace Corset Top pattern by Named has got lovely diagonal side seams but the shoulders are much too naked for my liking.

I remembered the lovely blouse I had seen at The Dashing Eccentric and decided to make a pattern hack using the yoke of the Datura Blouse by Deer and Doe.
Fortunately, I made two toiles of the Grace top to know that I had to sew a size 40 before cutting in my precious linen. The vertical seams have got paired seam allowances of one and two centimeters to make flat felled seams. I had to let them out 0,5 and 1cm towards the hem. I made flat felled seams of 5mm with my flat felled foot Bernina Nr. 70 shown here.
When finished the corset top, I dressed the Datura top underneath the corset top and my sewing teacher marked the top of the corset at the Datura with pins. Now I transferred the marking at the Datura pattern and cut the yoke pieces.
I sewed the shoulder and side seams and basted the corset piece to the yoke. We had to make little corrections, then I could sew my seam.
The yoke's cotton lining includes the seams.

Pattern hack:
bodice- Grace Corset Top, Named Clothing size 40 and
yoke- Datura, Deer and Doe size 38
Fabric: mediumweight linen, Garconne, Freiburg

Pants: Peter-and-the-Wolf Pants, Papercut Patterns

Have a look at all the other`s makes at MeMadeMittwoch!

Montag, 29. Mai 2017

Gathered Blouse, #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017 mai and 12 Colours of Handmade Fashion

Bonjours, les filles,
Hello, my dears,

Voilà my make of May for my capsule wardrobe, my blouse!
When I saw the Gathered Blouses of Meg and Lizzy, instantly I fell in love with the pattern. It has got a lovely peter pan collar, three quarter length sleeves gathered at small cuffs, yokes with a gathered back and a high low hem.
Eventually, I bought a copy of the book "She Wears the Pants" by Yuko Takada at Foyles' during a visit at London last year.
The original book's title is "She has a mannish style" which describes the included patterns more properly. Maybe you have seen Carolyn's cool tapered trousers or the various modern tops she has made, which patterns are included in this book, too.
Because the others had claimed the blouse being rather short, I lengthened the bodice by 5cm. You have to add the seam allowances.

I had started sewing my blouse at one of the sewing bees we local bloggers would have occasionally.

I used a lovely lightweight shirting of unknown content I had bought at a fabric outlet (Tandem, Bühl). It is slightly transparent and I made the mistake of using nude interfacing. Therefore, the button bands, pocket edges, collar and cuffs were looking dirty. 
It took some months until I was ready to undo the interfaced pieces. I cut the pieces a second time and interfaced them with white interfacing and sewed it for another time.

I am so happy, this is the perfect blouse pattern!
Pattern: Gathered Blouse, N*17, "She Wears the Pants" by Yuko Takada
Size M
Striped lightweight shirting, Tandem Bühl
Alterations: lengthened the bodice by 5cm

Do you want to see what all the other participants have made for May? Hop over to Clo's! Miriam is collecting the post of the German participants.
I just realized that I can participate at Selmin's 12 Colours of Handmade Fashion, too. She had chosen the colour of white for May. Have a look at her gallery and enjoy!

Mittwoch, 24. Mai 2017

Guise Pants, Papercut Patterns and B4985 Blouse

Hello, my dear sewing friends,

German sewists are gathering weekly at MeMadeMittwoch. Today Tanja is showing us her new Tea dress.

I am wearing my B4985 blouse and my last year's Guise Pants by Papercut Patterns.
The blouse is one of my very first makes of 2012. I had been inspired by Carolyn who had made several versions by then. I made a version with splitted flutter cap sleeves and a collar.

I already made vertical french seams. Some years later, I shortened the bust piece because I didn't like the fit. 
The Guise Pants by Papercut Patterns are garçonne-style with front box pleats, a fly front zipper and front pockets as well as back welt pockets. 
They are very comfy to wear but not really flattering. I had a nice glencheck linnen in my stash and sew a size S. They are quite big. The waist elastic is sewn on and fixed by the belt loops so I cannot make it smaller.
Blouse pattern: B4985 sleeves vers. A and collar vers. B
Size 12, shortened bust piece
White linnen

Guise Pants, Papercut Patterns
Size S
Glencheck linnen, Tandem, Bühl