Donnerstag, 22. März 2018

Perth Dress, Carolyn& Cassie Pattern

Hello, my dears!

Have you seen Carolyn‘s first pattern she launched together with her daughter Cassie, the Perth Dress? I already loved the design when last year in april, Carolyn showed her own dress in progress at IG. It features a men‘s wear inspired style with a very interesting front pleat ending at the collar stand.
When discovering the sewing blogger community several years ago, Carolyn‘s blog „Handmade by Carolyn“ was the one which encouraged me to begin sewing my own clothes. For making my first self made garments, I took the same patterns she had made and little by little finished them. Just click at the pictures to see her versions.
B4985
Burda 8497

























Some years have passed and I am so glad that Carolyn met me at Me-Made-May! She would always encourage me. She had supposed I take part at IG, too, which I did. I love how spontaneously communication is possible there. But for a proper pattern review, blog posts are a better place.
I was very happy to be a sewing tester. I didn‘t have much time because of some other obligations. So I shopped my little stash looking for a lightweight drape-y fabric where I found this lightly loosely woven, drapey, muddy grey blend I had already foreseen for a shirtdress.

My fabric is not as crisp as to provide a men‘s shirt collar but I love the outcome. The collar stand is sitting quite high and the collar‘s shape is especially chic.
I made my dress respecting all the instructions. I chose the size corresponding my bust measurement. Usually, I would grade between three sizes but this pattern is providing enough hip room to just sew up one size! The A4 sheets came nicely together. There is an A0-file to send to your copy-shop, too! Alternatively, you can save money printing only the big pieces at the copy-shop and tracing the overlaying little pieces. I love that the pattern pieces are labeled with the seam allowance which is 1 cm. Very often, I would search for the correct amount of seam allowance finding it somewhere hidden in a little corner.

There are quickie instructions which would probably have been sufficient for me but I sewed after the detailed instructions and I loved the little diagrams. Usually, I wouldn't use the burrito method, but I sewed the yokes following the clear instructions without any problems.
I love the sleeves fit. Usually, I would sew the shoulder point of my sleeve cap 1 cm forward which I didn't do here. I can lift my arms without any problems. The final pattern has got shorter sleeves.

The stunning front pleat is shaped by the clever closure. Only two button holes and a good placed button allows easy dressing and a surprising result. You have to like a buttoned collar stand though.

Pattern: Perth dress, Carolyn+Cassie Pattern
Size: 38
Fabric: loosely woven cotton blend, Tandem Bühl
No alterations.

I received this pattern for free to test it and I am probably biased concerning Carolyn which I admire so much (you have surely seen that she makes her shoes, too?!) but I have described my own opinion. Other pattern testers have made lovely colorful versions, just have a look at IG #perthdress!


I can't wait winter taking leave. Someone should say to him that it's spring time, no need for snow! When one day we already had warmer temperatures, I was able to wear my Perth dress. So comfy but chic!

Want to see makes of other women at RUMS?

Have fun,
SaSa











Mittwoch, 7. März 2018

Kobe dress and Mito slip dress, Papercut Patterns

Hello, my sewing friends!
Kobe Dress/Top
https://papercutpatterns.com/collections/sakura/products/kobe-dress-top hinzufügen
when Papercut Patterns released their Sakura collection ("cherry blossom") last year, I was so delighted by the lovely style that I wanted to make all of the patterns.
The Kobe dress is a loose straight cut dress featuring an interesting pleat and cut out detail at the back. I sewed it at our annual south German sewing bee at Würzburg last fall. I used a slightly transparent silk crepe of my stash.
Although I would always grade between three sizes, here I cut a straight size XS. I had read that it falls rather large.
I made no changes at all and didn't shorten it. I made French seams and bound the neckline with self fabric bias binding by hand. I didn't make a button hole but sewed the button shut at the back. I made a simple belt, too.
The back is cut out up to the bra back band. Because of my transparent fabric, I was likely obliged to make the slip dress, too. The Mito dress has to be bought additionally.
Mito Cami/Dress
https://papercutpatterns.com/collections/sakura/products/mito-cami-dress
I used a dens dark chocolate brown silk crepe of very good quality. I changed the construction slightly and seamed the bodice lining by hand including the bodice's and skirt's seam allowances.
I made these pictures freezing outside. The slip's silk is clinging at me. Maybe this will be better without tights?
I can't wait wearing this outfit all day at warmer temperatures.
Pattern: Kobe dress, Papercut Patterns
Size XS
Fabric: Ombré silk crepe, Tandem Bühl
No alterations

Pattern: Mito dress, Papercut Patterns
Size XS
Fabric: dense silk crepe, René Lézard
No alterations.

Have a look at the others' memades at Me-Made-Mittwoch and have fun!

SaSa

Mittwoch, 31. Januar 2018

#jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017 avec Couture et Clo

Couture&Clo’s garde robe capsule 2017

In 2017, Clo initiated a sew along to make a capsule wardrobe. Each month one would sew a garment of one of the categories thus achieving a capsule wardrobe. 

I realized that I had a garment of most of the categories already on my sewing wish list and made a plan in January 2017:
While I finished one garment of each category, I changed my mind some times choosing another pattern.
I wore this cozy and easy to wear cardigan quite a lot. It fills a gap in my wardrobe.
I used a very soft French Terry by Atelier Brunette and it is such a pleasure wearing it.
Robe-Farrow Dress, Grainline
I dyed the white viskose fabric and was not so sure about the color. Did you see Pantone's color of 2018? After a recent wear I decided shortening it about five centimeters. Maybe that will do the trick. I am in doubt with the dress as is.
I love the Nani Iro double gauze Komorebi "sunshine filtering through foliage" and I love the blouse.
Blouse- Gathered Blouse, „She Wears The Pants“
This is the perfect blouse pattern for floating fabric! I love this blouse, too!
Maillot de danse (au lieu de maillot de bain)- Kimono leotard, Jalie 2673
Why didn't I sew my leotards before? I was never complimented more. All the others would ask where I got this. It fits and it covers my curves decently.
Lingerie- Asaka kimono, Named
Another loved and most worn garment. In summer, I wore it every morning when making breakfast. I used a most lovely Liberty silk and the pattern is really chic and useful.
Pantalon- Tyyni Cigarette Trousers, Named
I am not sure about the trousers. There are quite some wrinkles in the back. I have worn it twice.
Robe d’été (au lieu de shorts)- Adrift Dress, Papercut Patterns
Another garment I am not sure about. Is this a lovely summer dress or just an expensive nightie? When finishing it, the weather turned cold so I don't know right now.
Jupe- Pulmu, Named
although I like the skirt, I didn't dress it. It has a lovely shape and is lined, but after seeing the picture, I feared that it is clinging. I have to give it a try!
Manteau- Sapporo Coat, Papercut Patterns
I wore this coat only once because it is quite thin and it was too cold. I is a great pattern. Some others have made a closure like a zip to make it more warming. To work, I get into the car and out of the car with little time to walk outside so I didn't make any closure. I think it is more chic without.

Robe de noel inspirée par Lanvin (au lieu de combinaison)- Helmi, Named et Flora, ByHandLondon
Finally, my #designindecember. (I won a pattern by SBCC and I will make the peplum Moto Chic jacket. Since I had seen Heather Lou's I had it on my list.) The dress is very lovely to wear and to wash! Just wash it and hang it up, it will be ready without any press! I dressed it not only at Christmas Eve but also at New Year's Eve.

Normally, I would sew what is just coming to my mind. The different categories forced me to begin some garments I wouldn't have sewn otherwise so I am very happy with the result. 

Presenting the makes was a little bit difficult. I would have liked an easy linked in seeing what everyone else had made. Clo even has some great prizes to win, four big packages of sewing patterns. 

Thank you so much, Clo!

Post edit: our German MeMadeMittwoch is only opened monthly, no more weekly. I hope it is ok to link to it now since I had postet it a Wednesday ;) Go have a look at all the others' me mades!

SaSa

Mittwoch, 3. Januar 2018

Lieblingsteil 2017

Dear sewing friends,

maybe you have read my previous retrospect post of my makes 2017. Today is our first meeting of German sewists at MMM, themed "favorite make of 2017".
One beloved dress I had forgotten to mention: my Lilli-Malvarosa dress. The fabric is super soft with a lovely drape and it is wearable from fall to spring. I had already made two summer versions of this great pattern by Pauline Alice which I adore.

I had forgotten today's meeting but actually I am wearing the Lilli-dress quite now.

Today's host Claudia of bunte kleider  is showing her top pattern Eliana which is by Pauline Alice, too. She has sewn several lovely versions. Thank you so much all of you organizing our meetings at MeMadeMittwoch!

Have a look at the others' top garments at Me-Made-Mittwoch and enjoy!

SaSa

Montag, 1. Januar 2018

Retrospect 2017

My dear sewing friends,

I had had the impression that I had sewn only a handful of pieces in 2017 but here are the 37 pieces:

7 dresses
Farrow-dress, Grainline *, and Malvarosa dress, pauline alice
Adrift dress*, papercut patterns, Marcy Tilton Cirque dress and 
Kobe dress, papercut patterns, not blogged
Alder dress, Grainline, Liberty Archive Lilac silk, not blogged, and 

4 coats and jackets
Driftless Cardigan*, Grainline, and 
lined Lourdes jacket, Named Clothing, not blogged, similar here

Robson Coat, Sewaholic, and Sapporo Coat*, papercut patterns, both not blogged.

8 tops
Grande Arche blouse (sewing tester), Sewionista and blouse Marthe, RDC, not blogged
Japanese gathered blouse*, The Azaire blouse*, Gather
Grace-Datura corselet hack, Named Clothing and Deer+Doe, and Moana top, papercut patterns

2 skirts
Grande Arche skirt (sewing tester), Sewionista, Pulmu skirt*, Named Clothing

1 pair of trousers
Tyyni cigarette trousers*, Named Clothing, pictures here
5 lingerie-sets

Harriet Bra, Cloth Habit, Smoothie panties, Hilda pants, Ohhh Lulu
Madalynne bra S8229 and Smoothie panties
2 home-/nightwear
Asaka kimono*, Named Clothing, and
Reef pajamas, Megan Nielsen, not blogged
3 active-wear
sweetheart leotard, Jalie2797, not blogged
4 sewing for others
Stowe bag, Grainline and petal pouches, Noodlehead
Japanese gathered blouse and men's shirt V, both not blogged
Bionic gear bag, sewn together with Mel, not blogged
1 little not blogged bag:

Fail:
I had had high expectations in the Talvikki sweater, but it didn't suit me at all and I already donated it.
The Adrift dress is lovely and floaty. But I feel that I have made an expensive night gown. However, it was only finished at the end of summer and I will give it another try next summer.

Surprise:
I would never had sewn such a short skirt if not for pattern testing. This skirt fits well, it is very well made with a lovely lining, it is a young and modern style and I don't feel ridiculous wearing it. I love it and I am wearing it a lot.

Most worn:
Why hadn't I thought about making my active wear before? The leotard dresses are in steady rotation and I have never had so many people complimenting and asking where I had gotten them.
The Driftless cardigan is another garment worn  a lot. And so is the underwear.

Most loved:
Maybe the gathered blouse and the Azaire blouse? The first is a perfect blouse pattern, the second is such a lovely pattern. The silk Liberty Alder dress was made too late in beginning fall, I hope wearing it in spring. Same with the Reef pajamas.

I can see that there are several sewn garments unblogged. My main problem is the part of taking pictures. I don't like being photographed at all and I don't have the skill of taking good pictures or of editing. A good post needs very good pictures so anyone would like reading it. It's a dilemma!

There are several instagram activities I have taken part in more or less(@paisleypirouette):
#mmmay17 organized by @sozoblog
#sewphotohop by @houseofpinheiro and
#pbsewvember by @bimbleandpimble
The spontaneous posting was fun!

I have taken part in Clo's  @couture_and_clo #jecoudsmagarderobecapsule2017 with sewing one garment per month including twelve categories (I signed them with a little star). I liked participating a lot and will hopefully write another blog post about this sew along.

Every year, the German MeMadeMittwoch-blog is offering a Christmas-dress-sew-along.

I took part with my Lanvin-inspired dress at Monikas and Yvonne's "from runway to my wardrobe" (Vom Laufsteg in den Kleiderschrank).

There is Linda's challenge "Designin'December" where I am taking part, too. Have a look at IG #designindecember.

Thank you for reading my posts! I am especially thankful for every comment made.

Have a peaceful and happy New Year with a lot of time for sewing and blogging!
SaSa